Sewing Indie Month Pattern Hacking

My project for Sewing Indie Month 2015 is a pattern hack, well more of a mash up as its a combo of two patterns with an extra flip!

Sew Independent my nth Pattern Hacking

Sew Independent September 2015 Pattern Hacking

The Sugarplum Dress  from Lolita patterns has a knit skirt & the top is made from woven fabric. As I had fallen in love with the Sorrel Top from Seamster patterns I decided to flip  it. I used a stable knit to make a Sorrel top and a cotton twill with a slight stretch for the Sugarplum skirt.

I took advantage of the September bonus sun and did the cutting outside using my trusty giant homemade birthday card as a board. Cute little labels for each pattern piece are provided. As the skirt is made of many similar shaped pieces its an excellent idea.  Another great feature of the pattern are the symbols used to indicate where pieces join. Both the  illustrations & instructions are perfect in fact even constructing the giant jigsaw pattern was simple thanks to the skull & cross bone overlays.


I had already made a Sorrel top so had the pattern cut out and to my absolute joy I had made collar patterns in freezer paper! I adore the design of the collar but cutting jersey into this shape is like catching a slippery eel. I had to make a few tidgey adjustments as I wanted it a bit snugger than my first attempt. Rather than cut it I snipped the edges and flipped them in.


My decision to use the woven fabric for the collar presented an extra construction conundrum. I was already sweating at the thought of joining the skirt and top : do I apply the woven rules or knit rules? In order to give the collar a bit more flexibility I cut it on the bias.  As it is a bit heavier than the knit I used a lycra for the facing,  sewing it all together was like taming worms.


In order to ensure that the skirt & top fit perfectly I made plenty of sewing pit stops to measure & adjust.

I sandwiched  strips of the knit between the skirt and waistband & after a few wibbly wobbly disasters added stay tape between the top & skirt.



Surprisingly the collar doesn’t pucker and pull and the skirt & top join together in perfect harmony! I was so pleased with the dress I couldn’t wait to wear it for work even though I hadn’t overlocked the seams yet. I realized when I decided to change my shoes that overlocking wasn’t  the only thing I hadn’t done. As I bent down the center back skirt seam spilt down the middle! I had tacked the seam when fitting the zip but forgotten to finish it.


Sugarplum Dress & Sorrel Top Hack

Sugarplum Dress & Sorrel Top Hack

The dress is super comfy and has fabulous side pockets, the design & cut of the skirt make it so easy to fit. I have just started making a skirt in black denim, I will decide in the morning if its going to become a dress or stay a skirt…….or maybe I will introduce another top pattern……

If you are feeling kind & like my dress please vote for me using the link below: click on my photo (number 7) and a little red heart should appear.




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